Ashley

Ashley
a picture from Galveston last year...

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

PASTITSIO!!!! (for Susan...)

Two summers ago, was it REALLY THAT LONG AGO?!??, our dear friend Anastasia came in from Greece for a short visit. While here, we were in the throws of CSU's SUMMER STAGES and one evening after a busy day of shopping at the West Side Market and a busy day of chopping and cooking, we hosted a GREEK FEAST here at the big house! The menu was a vast array of beautiful and fresh Greek delights that I had never cooked or really experienced at the hand of a true Greek chef. Roasted chicken with tomato and almonds, lentils, stuffed peppers...the menu went on and on... Included in that menu: PASTITSIO!!!

This is a Greek baked pasta, buried in a deliciously rich custard usually filled with ground meat and a blend of tomatoes, peppers and onions. Over the years I've experimented with various meats, finding ground lamb to be absolutely divine in the mix, and I have ALSO developed (though not tested extensively) a Vegetarian version. I'm posting this recipe today for Susan, a very, very dear friend and...vegetarian!!

I have read up on several other vegetarian recipes which use the addition of soy crumbles, eggpplant and some which use strictly a tomato base for filling. I would think that eggplant would make a nice addition to my version of the recipe, and given enough time (I think eggplant really has to ruminate in lots of flavors at least overnight to have ANY flavor) might work! I'm typing up my version below. As I said, I've not tested this recipe much so any insights would be much appreciated!!

VEGETARIAN PASTITSIO...for Susan.
Pastitsio is three simple components: the pasta, the filling, and the custard. Pastitsio (the actual pasta) can be found in specialty stores or ordered on-line. It's basically a really long penne. Penne could be used in place of the pastitsio itself, but if you can find the actual Greek pasta you should try to keep it authentic. In addition to the Greek pasta, I have to INSIST on a REALLY GOOD GREEK OLIVE OIL. This makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE in the baking and flavor. Keep your cheap EVOO around for everyday cooking, but invest in a really good olive oil for making special dishes like these.

THE PASTA!
  • Pastitsio - boiled to al dente according to package directions...drain and rest
  • Make sure your water is heavily salted to flavor your pasta and DO NOT ADD OIL TO YOUR WATER and DO NOT RINSE! Once the pasta is slightly cool, add 1-2 T Olive Oil and toss lightly. This will help when you're assembling the pastitsio.

THE FILLING!!

  • 16 oz, mixed mushrooms or your preferred mushroom thinly sliced
  • 4 cups mustard greens (or freshly washed and cleaned greens...you could also use a mix, but I think the spice of the mustards add the best kick)
  • 1-2 cups vegetable stock (you might not need this depending on how juicy your tomatoes are!)
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • Juice and zest of one lemon (completely from Susan, by the way)
  • 1 medium green bell pepper
  • 3-4 medium tomatoes, whole and chopped (whatever's fresh...you could also use a 28oz can of whole tomatoes)
  • 1 1/2 cups toasted walnuts, roughly chopped (roast at 275degrees for 10-12 minutes or until fragrant and golden...or buy them pre-roasted but be leary of the salt!)
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 1 T freshly ground nutmeg
  • 1 teaspoon paprika (smoked if you have it)
  • 1/3 cup rough chopped oregano (or 2-3 T dried oregano)

Preheat 2-3 T olive oil in a deep pot. Add mushrooms/slices and brown in batches, removing from pot and drain on paper towel. Add onions to olive oil and cook down 3-4 minutes until translucent. Add garlic and cook until just beginning to brown. Deglaze with a squeeze of lemon juice and stir in your bell pepper and tomatoes. Salt and pepper to help your tomatoes start breaking down. (If using canned tomatoes, add entire contents of can). Toss in the mustard greens with your remaining lemon juice, and 1-2 cups of vegetable stock, if needed. Add nutmeg and paprika and half of the oregano. Bring to a boil to bring your flavors together, drop to a simmer and cook together, slightly covered, for 20-30 minutes. The mixture should have reduced and thickened up and should be smelling AMAZING! You also want your tomatoes to really break down and be crushed up into the mix. Return your mushrooms to the pot, stir in the roughly chopped walnuts, lemon zest and remaining oregano. Taste for seasoning and add salt as needed. Stir together and simmer until you get a nice thick filling. An additional 10-12 minutes. Your filling is ready!

THE CUSTARD!!!

  • 1 stick of unsalted butter
  • 2-3 T olive oil
  • 1/3 cup AP flour
  • 3 large eggs
  • 2-3 cups of simmering WHOLE MILK (I argued this one but the Greek lady at the West Side Market who runs the Mediterranean Grocery and who is FROM the Greek island where Pastitsio was created, INSISTS that you can only use WHOLE MILK to make this custard...why argue with the lady who was raised where the recipe was created?!)
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • MORE NUTMEG!

This can be tricky and requires a lot of ELBOW GREASE. I make my custard in a deep, double stainless bowl with a whisk. The bowl can easily go right over your heat source and keeps everything together. Add olive oil and butter to the mixing bowl and heat over medium until melted and combined. Your butter will just start to froth but because we're melting it in olive oil, it will not brown or burn. Slowly whisk in the flour creating a thick and buttery roux. Toss and mix in a healthy pinch of salt and the nutmeg and drop your heat, stirring constantly until you smell the flour cook out (this might take some practice, but when you get it you'll know it). Add one cup of simmering milk and continue whisking until well mixed and thickened. (It's going to clump up on you at this point and turn almost dough like.) Add additional cup of milk, whisk in and remove from heat, stirring constantly. Add eggs, one at a time and whisk until smooth. (If you're afraid of this step, you can temper your eggs in a separate bowl with a few Tablespoons of the custard mix. I've found that as long as you're off the heat a couple of minutes and whisking constantly, curdling your eggs is not an issue.)

You're ready to assemble...

Grease a deep baking dish or casserole (10x13x2.75) with 2 healthy tablespoons of olive oil. Layer in 1/2 of your pastitsio pasta making it as neat or chaotic as you choose. You want to fill up the casserole by about 1/3. Spoon on your filling adding any liquids that have settled since cooking. Add another layer of pasta, completely covering the filling. Pour your custard over the top of the entire dish, allowing it to fill in all the gaps in the pasta and sealing the dish.

Give the pastitsio time to settle (15-20 minutes) before putting it in a 325degree oven. (If you're casserole is very full, as mine usually is, you might want to bake on a baking sheet, just in case of overflow.) Bake for 35-45 minutes until the custard on top has set and is a beautiful golden brown.

This one is a little complex...but WELL WORTH IT! I hope all of you can try it and add your own special touches...

May your eats be delicious and your dinners divine!!

Ashley

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